Crystal J's Weblog

As a restaurant reviewer for the Los Angeles Examiner Comfort and Soul Food Section, I encounter that many “Soul Food” restaurants would rather be deemed “Southern Cuinsine”.  Now, I understand the politics of it all.  The word soul food is so alienating.  Whereas many other cultures’ food are revered and can be what they are.  The African American offerings have stigmas.  Many of the stigmas warrant the reputation and many do not.

Once, I was speaking with an African American female friend of mine from an upscale neighborhood.  I talked about soul food and she scrunched her nose because she did not grow up eating it.  Being muslim, she also learned to stay away from much of the food because she could not eat pork.  As for her take on soul food, I rebutted with the celebration of our culture whether good or bad.  I understand the disdain that some African Americans have toward the food because some of the food signifies what our ancestor were left to eat like pig feet, chitterlings(pigs intestines) and pot liquor (the juice of collard greens).  Much of the food was heavily seasoned with salt.  The tradition of consistent consumption of the food has lead generations to diabetes, high blood pressure and heart problems.

Is the consumption of this food a matter of quality versus quantity or simply quantity?  It is probably a little of both.  Collard greens don’t have to be laddened with salt.  Many Soul Food/Southern Cuisine cooks are cooking smart.  Connell Moss, the owner of Ms. Peaches in North Hollywood, CA lost over 100 pounds and decided to alter many of his dishes to be hearty healthy and vegetarian friendly.   The food is low on salt and all sides are cooked without meat.  Les Sistas in Chatsworth, CA also opts for low salt use but pork still surfaces in some of the sides.  Mary Helen’s Southern Cuisine in Hampton, Virginia uses smoked turkey butts in the collard greens and the red beans.  Although, you will still find pigfeet and chitterlings on the menu and in demand in the southern location.  The owner of Red Springs Cafe in Baltimore, Maryland uses some of what she learned from diabetic cooking classes to cook her food in canola oil or chicken broths.  Her sides are also without pork.  She also offers baked tilapia and delicious baked chicken.  Do not be dismayed pork lovers, pulled pork barbecue and ribs are on the menu too.

Soul Food as it once was affectionately call has a bad wrap so Southern Cuisine provides a more inclusive cultural attraction.  As business owners, the goals is to attract masses to purchase your cuisne.  Southern food includes fried chicken, fried catfish biscuits, cornbread and many more delicious item which come with the expression, “A moment on the lips, a lifetime on the hips.”  Conversely, we should save the flavor but consume less of it with frequency.  Change the dynamic of your plate if you eat fried chicken, don’t put fried fish on your plate too.  If you skip the cornbread then go for a piece of sweet potato pie.   Share your thoughts.